C.F. Penn Hamburgers
Decatur, Morgan County
This joint is on the original AL.com list of 22 Greasy Spoon Burger Joints in Alabama you have to
visit before you die.
When you step into C.F. Penn
Hamburgers in Decatur,
it is like walking through a time portal back into the 1950s. The red checkered
linoleum floor, the sparsely decorated red and white striped walls with their
old fashioned yellowed menu boards, the corny Pepsi clock in one corner, and
last, but not least, the prices for the food instantly make you feel like Peggy
Sue or Johnny B. Goode. There is a long counter with eleven chrome-clad bar
stools, and some of those four-person booths and some of the two-person variety
on the opposite wall and the window side of the restaurant. They accept cash only,
which should not be a problem, because, as said before, the prices are very reasonable.
I paid not even seven bucks for two double cheeseburgers all the way and a
large soda.
The hamburgers there are a unique
local specialty – the so called “slug burger”. Originally, during World War II
when meat was rationed, the patties for the "slug burgers" consisted
mostly of fried lard with blood and bits of trimmed meat. Nowadays, it is meat
and about one third of filler/extender material, like bread crumbs. This
specialty only exists from North Central Alabama to Corinth, Mississippi,
where they use potato or soy flour as the extender. The extender stretches the
portions and also contributes to the low price.
The patties are dumped into a large
rectangular frying pan with boiling oil, and pulled out of there when the
outside is golden-brown and crispy. Since most of the flavor of any food comes
either through various spices, or through fat, oil and grease by way of the
cooking process, you get a very flavorful patty here – and in the South, we
know anyway that everything is better when it is deep fried. Outsiders may be
dismayed by this, especially since after you crush through the crisp outside,
your teeth will sink into the somewhat soggy and mushy inside of the hamburger patty
– remember the bread crumbs ... Well, I personally like the two very
distinctive textures of the patty, but it is certainly not the uniform and
standardized stuff you get at those national franchise places.
The staff there will “pre-cook” the
patties, and there is always a stack of them waiting to be used in a new
burger. Since they will take the upper most patties from the stack for each new
burger, the patties on the bottom are fairly dated when they eventually get to
them. And, of course, you better not try imagining what all that glorious
grease and oil will do to your coronary system or your waist line – it is soul
food, not health food, dummy!
The really huge double cheeseburger
all the way comes with two of those fried patties, some American cheese,
chopped onions, and mustard between a standard burger bun. There are shakers
with red pepper spice on the tables, which gives the burger a very nice kick in
the pants, and adds an additional layer of flavor, if you need that. You can
have French fries as a side, which are also top notch, especially with some of
the red pepper spice sprinkled on them.
The staff at C.F. Penn Hamburgers
is very nice, and the restaurant is kept spotless clean. This is definitely a
place where the locals eat, and at any given day there is a mixture of
teenagers, workers, house wives, business people, and retirees to find there. The
building is situated in the revitalized downtown Arts and Entertainment
district of Decatur, just a block away from the fabulous Princess Theatre,
which is a 1950s gems that has been restored to its former glory. I do not know
whether C.F. Penn Hamburgers has ever received a renovation – it probably
exists in a time bubble that defied all outside pressure for modernization
since they opened in 1927. I hope it will stay that way for at least another 87
years, keeping a very southern tradition alive.
No comments:
Post a Comment