Sandwich Farm
Huntsville, Madison County
This joint is not on the AL.com
list of 22 Greasy Spoon Burger Joints in Alabama you have to visit before you
die.
Just a few months ago, the owner of
the Sandwich Farm had a second restaurant in Huntsville, the 3 Skillets on the
Courthouse Plaza. That was a real narrow dive, with a long counter with half a
dozen bar stools, from which you had a clear and direct view on the cooking
griddles five feet away on the opposite wall. They had a couple of very small
tables in one corner, and some tables with big umbrellas on the sidewalk. Their
potato hash brown was divine, and the atmosphere was very bohemian.
Fast forward to today – the 3
Skillets is no more, because the burden of managing two different localities at
the same time was too much for the owner. So she decided to consolidate her assets
and only operate one restaurant – the Sandwich Farm. That joint is situated at
the edge of Downtown Huntsville, in a tiny business area that also houses a
recording studio, a music hall, and a photographer. So there is some bohemian
atmosphere there, too, plus they have definitely a much, much better parking
situation than in the middle of downtown.
The restaurant does not have any sign with its name on it, just a big
yellow poster with the piece parts of a burger in one window, and some strange
poster with a pig, a cheese, an apple, and a loaf of bread on the outside wall
between the two entrance doors. Inside, you immediately stand before a counter
with half a dozen wooden high chairs. If you sit there, your view is limited to
a giant black-board with drawings and descriptions of all kinds of piece parts
for the several meals they offer on it. Behind that wall is the kitchen, but
other than in the 3 Skillets, what goes on in there stays hidden from the
customers. You can also sit at one of the many tables, which are mostly located
in the longer leg of the L-shaped room (the counter being in the shorter leg of
that L).
I was very happy to find basically the same menu that the 3 Skillets
had. So I chose the Skillet Burger, with extra bacon. That is an in-house hand
cut and ground beef patty with the usual suspects – lettuce, pickles, tomato,
red onions, cheese – in a brioche bun. Brioche? Sounds French, don’t you think?
And indeed, it is French - a pastry, really, that is similar to highly enriched
bread with a rich and tender crumb. It has more butter and eggs in it than
normal bread, and is slightly puffy on the inside, with a somewhat flaky crust
on the outside. Sounds fru-fru, doesn’t it? Well, yeah. To be honest, it is
slightly sweet and thus gives the burger a distinctive flavor. To be quite
honest, I could live without that French sweet flaky puffiness. And the Brioche
did not even elevate the burger to new lofty heights – it was rather pedestrian
instead. Don’t get me wrong, it was a good burger, but really nothing special,
nothing to write home about, nothing to be put on a list of things to try
before you die. It was okay. That’s it.
Because they do not fry stuff at the Sandwich Farm, I had to pick a different
side than the ubiquitous Fries. Which is a good thing – I did not need even
more French stuff on my plate. So I chose the potato salad, which was really
great. Red skinned potatoes in sour cream, only lightly seasoned – very yummy.
I will definitely be back at the Sandwich Farm, but a burger I will not order
there again. They have way better things on the menu. What would go well with
potato salad?
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